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Notes from the ground.

Destination guides, industry analysis and opinion on luxury travel in South America.

We analyzed 1,397 independent lodges in Chile with AI. Here's what we found.

IndustrySep 29, 20265 min read

We analyzed 1,397 independent lodges in Chile with AI. Here's what we found.

Chile's small lodges are rated among the best in the country, most can take a booking online, and almost none of them keep in touch with their guests or reach the international trade.

Crossing from Torres del Paine to El Calafate

DestinationsSep 25, 20262 min read

Crossing from Torres del Paine to El Calafate

Five to six hours, two border posts seven kilometres apart, and a set of rules that only bite in one direction. Most of what goes wrong here is avoidable.

How many nights in Atacama, and how to handle the altitude

DestinationsSep 25, 20262 min read

How many nights in Atacama, and how to handle the altitude

Four nights is the floor, and the first one is spent low. Three nights leaves two useful days, because arrival day can't include altitude.

How to get to San Pedro de Atacama

DestinationsSep 25, 20261 min read

How to get to San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro has no airport. The route is Santiago to Calama, two hours in the air, then about an hour and a quarter across the desert.

How to get to Torres del Paine from Santiago

DestinationsSep 25, 20262 min read

How to get to Torres del Paine from Santiago

A flight of about four hours, a van of about one hour forty-five, and one detail that decides the whole day: the time the lodge collects guests.

When to go to San Pedro de Atacama, and when to avoid it

DestinationsSep 25, 20261 min read

When to go to San Pedro de Atacama, and when to avoid it

The desert works almost all year. Two windows deserve care, and for opposite reasons: February and early March bring rain that closes roads, and December fills up.

"We don't sell. People buy from us."

IndustrySep 24, 20264 min read

"We don't sell. People buy from us."

Two months of conversations with Chilean luxury hotels and suppliers, and a map of the three stages they fall into, from no commercial team at all to paying a quarter of revenue for trips they can't assemble.

The Uber Turn

OpinionSep 23, 20264 min read

The Uber Turn

Uber made the driver the hero of its story while building the asset that made any one driver interchangeable, and travel is running a version of the same play.

How many nights to stay in Torres del Paine

DestinationsSep 22, 20262 min read

How many nights to stay in Torres del Paine

Four nights is the floor, because the weather gets a vote. Five or six is where most trips should land.

Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas: which airport for Torres del Paine

DestinationsSep 22, 20263 min read

Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas: which airport for Torres del Paine

Most travelers land in Punta Arenas because it has more flights. It costs them a full day in a van.

The Future of Booking

IndustrySep 22, 20265 min read

The Future of Booking

Travelers will soon plan trips by talking to an AI, and the value will settle on the ground, far from the chat window.

When to go to Torres del Paine, and how far ahead to book

DestinationsSep 22, 20263 min read

When to go to Torres del Paine, and how far ahead to book

The season barely changes your transfer times, but it decides what you can still book and how many hours of light your traveler gets.

Who Creates the Value, and Who Keeps It

OpinionSep 22, 20263 min read

Who Creates the Value, and Who Keeps It

The lodge spends years creating the reason for the trip. Then it hands back about a quarter of the revenue to a chain it can't see into. Why that happens, and why it's starting to change.